I received the Vyper 3d Printer within 2 days after I purchased it! Beforehand, I did a bit of reading and comparing. There are some real benefits to buying the Anycubic Vyper 3d (not to be confused with reviews on the Anycubic Kobra which is not as automated). The first print I tried worked out great and the owl (included on the SD card) looked pretty awesome! The total setup time was about an hour or so. There were a few things I had to redo on the setup but they were mostly my fault for not reading the guide better. There are only about a dozen (easy) steps total to the entire setup. I fully agree with the reviews I read about this being one of the best and easiest to use 3d printers. Once I was done, it all made sense.Here are a few tips to help with your setup:1. You may want to order 1 or 2 (standard PLA) filaments with the 3d printer. Included is a small roll of filament that isn't on a spool. Trust me, you'll appreciate this when you get ready to do your first 3d print. I purchased a gold PLA standard filament which looks pretty nice once the object is printed.2. There are a few tools included but personally I would get a better putty knife and a larger hand-sized zip tie cutter. You'll only use the zip tie cutters once but you'll use the putty knife after each print. The plastic putty knife included is nice but not ideal. I use a cheese cutting knife where I can use the big ball end to knock off the 3d object to break it loose from the magnetic top and the sharper blade end to get the residue off (being careful not to cut the magnetic top). The zip tie cutter is really (really) small and not ideal for some of the tougher zip ties you'll need to cut. There are about a 1/2 dozen or so zip ties to cut which are in obvious places. Don't forget about the large zip tie that is directly under the bed and securing it. It's almost impossible to cut this bigger zip tie with the small zip tie cutter included. I am grateful the Vyper shipped with tools even though I couldn't really use a couple of them (I guess I could use them in a pinch if I had nothing else.) I really like the slide out box for tools.3. Unpacking is straight-forward and the quick setup instruction guide is good to look at (carefully). I did have to re-read a few sections and diagrams. The steps are easy and straight-forward as long as you actually read the guide. Again, there are only about a dozen steps in the whole setup!!Some of the arrows on the diagrams could be a little clearer on where the bolts need to screw in but it's difficult to mess this up when you only have 4 bolts (total) to worry about securing (nice)! They also include an L shaped hex type tool (whatever they are called.) You only need 2 of the 6 L shaped hex tools to tighten the 4 screws. I thought I was missing these tools until I opened the drawer in the front of the printer (below the LCD display on the right side). I found these tools secured in the drawer. Everything was neatly packaged and very secure to prevent any damage.4. After mounting the LCD, I couldn't find the cable to connect to it until I pulled out the 2 big styro-foam blocks directly under the bed which were put there to keep the bed from moving while being shipped (you have to pull these out to clip the center zip tie under the bed.). Pull these out slowly as there are a few other cables taped under the styro-foam blocks. Besides the 4 cables to connect to the side motors, you will also see the LCD cable. It's difficult to mix up the connections since each one is a different size. There are about a 1/2 dozen cables total to connect (excluding the LCD cable). I was able to connect all the cables even though I had to re-route a few of them. Pay attention to the quick-startup guide and avoid routing them the same way as the diagram with the big red X. If you need to unplug them, you can slowly wiggle them out or there are 2 plastic things on the side of a couple of the connectors to push out which lets the cable unplug.6. I powered everything up and inserted the filament into the guide. I then followed the instructions to push the "Filament In" button to get it to auto-route into the white tubing down to the tip. It was a little tricky but everything made sense following the guide and reviewing a few youtube videos to make sure.7. The auto-leveling was painless and went without problems again, following the straight-forward guide.8. Touching the tip of the heating end took a few touches with a metal object (anything metal I guess). I had to touch it a 3-4 times until I saw the LCD screen starting to execute the next step.9. One important note is that you'll need a slicing program. Cura comes on the SD card but you may want to download and install it ahead of time from the web to make sure you have the latest version. Thingiverse is an awesome website to search for *.stl files to print. You open the *.stl file with Cura and then click the blue "Slice" button (bottom right) to make it into a *.gcode file. The *.gcode file then needs to be copied to the (root) of the sd card. The owl.gcode example file on the sd card needs to be copied from its folder to the root of the sd card before you can see it listed on the LCD screen. When you click to print the files on the LCD screen, you will then see all the *.gcode filenames in the root (ie. not in any folders) on the sd card. It's not a big deal but hopefully future versions of the LCD will allow you to navigate to sub-folders. My only complaint is that I had to copy the owl.gcode file to the root folder so the LCD would then see it. I then selected it and pushed the "Print" button to start printing.10. Here's another important tip that I had to research on the web. The Vyper ships with the voltage defaulted to 115 (typo on the dial, it's really 110 and 220). After I clicked the Print button to print the owl, the screen turned black (and I panicked!) I waited, waited and waited. I then did some googling and I quickly found that this is caused by the incorrect voltage setting on the Vyper and you need to simply flip the red switch in the back of the unit until it says 225 (220) if you live in the U.S.A. or use 220, otherwise leave it. Once I did this and went to print, everything started immediately. The LCD unit will let you auto-level and do other steps but once you try to print, the screen will go black if the voltage setting isn't set correctly. Just turn off the machine and change the voltage setting to fix this.11. The owl turned out perfect on the first try!! It was simply awesome to watch (it took about 1 1/2 hours.)12. I downloaded more *.stl files (zipped) from Thingiverse (Yeggi and other sites also have *.stl files at a small cost of about $1-$2 each). I've been converting these to *.gcode files on the computer, copying them to the root on the sd card and then printing them. I had one small problem where I sliced an *.stl file of an object which didn't have a proper base (one side of it stuck out 4 inches at a 45 degree angle and there was nothing under to support it.) This caused the printer to try and print into thin air which then caused the filament to speghetti out. I paused and then eventually stopped the printer realizing that it just wasn't going to print properly without some kind of support on the one end (the object wasn't designed correctly).Another nice feature I noticed is that I can start the print and walk away. The head is designed to shave off the excess filament goob onto the side of the magnetic coating before it starts the actual print in the center. I just brush this goob of filament off the top of the coating when I check on things.I hope these tips help. One last thing to mention is the magnetic board will slide into place (after the printhead has heated up and shows 200/200 for the OE. You don't need to pre-position or worry about the board sliding forward. After the pointhead heats up for the next print, the magnetic board will slide back into place.Make sure to have fun with it. I've only had mine for 2 days and I'm having a blast printing out objects. There are soo many cool and useful gadgets you can print. Many kitchen and other useful gadgets that would cost me $20 or more can now be created for less than a few dollars of filament!